Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Gunnison Gorge & Crawford, CO (6/10/2017)

Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area is a large tract of the adobe badlands I sometimes refer to, actually consisting of volcanic ash that has hardened into near rock density.  Located just north of the Black Canyon, some rafting and kayaking is done in the Gunnison River through the gorge.  The conservation area, managed by BLM, is mostly used for ATV operation.  Frankly, it is raw, desolate land suitable for almost no other use.

In researching for something else, I stumbled upon a reference to Eagle Rock Shelter Archeological Site.  Digging deeper, I learned this site, only about 35 miles from home, is where some of the oldest human artifacts in the country have been found.  Evidence proves that humans used this area as far back as 12,800 years.  I had to make a visit to such a special place.

Getting to this site isn't difficult at all.  A couple miles on a dirt road, rocky in places but pretty tame overall, led to a gravel parking area and an unsigned trailhead.  The trail is good, dropping about 200 feet into the gorge over 1/3 mile.  It was one of our hottest days, 95F, so I knew the return would be a little tougher than the trip down.  Before reaching the floor of the gorge, the trail rounded a rock outcropping and I saw the remnants of the excavation.

I later read that the archeological team had concluded that all the artifacts had been found, so the excavation seems to have been abandoned, but looks ready for further work if someone decides it is warranted.  The rock walls are covered with petroglyphs, but erosion and other factors have rendered many of them indecipherable.  A few animals can be identified, probably more recent additions.  While petroglyphs can't be definitively dated, some are thought to be at least 4000 years old.

Among the oldest artifacts are seeds and small animal bones, indicating the people were not big game hunters.

Since I still had plenty of time that afternoon, I decided to visit Needle Rock, another twenty miles from Gunnison Gorge, near the town of Crawford.  Needle Rock is a volcanic plug, but was formed differently than the others I've written about.  In this case, magma was being pushed toward the surface in the process of forming a volcano.  However, the layers of sedimentary rock above were hard enough to prevent breaking the surface.  The magma eventually hardened and the higher layers eroded away, leaving the exposed plug.  All this took about 25 million years.
The formation looks much different on the far side.
Leaving the area, I was struck by the pretty valley and surrounding mountains, wondering if the farmers and ranchers appreciated their great views.  I also came across a ranch that raises yaks, the first I've seen in Colorado.

Monday, June 12, 2017

Montrose, CO (6/4 & 6/10/2017)

Although I'm not traveling right now, I do want to share with you some of my recent activities in and around Montrose. 

On a lovely Sunday afternoon, I drove to Black Canyon National Park to visit a friend who happens to be the campground host there this summer.  Hearing reports of bear activity, particularly in the bottom of the canyon by the Gunnison River, I went down to see what I could find.  The river was raging with all the snowmelt, and the wild lupines were blooming nicely.  After a thorough search to no avail, I started the steep drive out of the canyon.  Along the way, I encountered several grouse, including my first sighting of a male dusky grouse strutting to impress a cutie.  This is a sight that not everyone gets to see, so I decided to show you some of the photos I got.

This is the object of his affection, a shy little lady enthralled by his performance.
On June 10, I attended the grand re-opening of the local Ute Indian Museum.  This facility, one of eight state-wide managed by the non-profit organization History Colorado, has been closed for nearly two years for renovation and expansion.  The celebration was attended by people from all over Western Colorado and Eastern Utah.  Of course, the three tribes of Utes participated in planning the new museum and the opening ceremonies.  Many tribe members wore ceremonial costumes, played traditional music and performed tribal dances.  Even a few palefaces took part in the dancing.

Musical instruments
The museum uses artwork and actual artifacts to convey the history, culture and traditions of the Ute tribes.  Chief Ouray, long considered to have been primarily responsible for establishing peace with early settlers, and his wife Chipeta have been honored in many ways.  A county and a town are named for him, while she is actually buried on the grounds of the museum, located on a road named for her.

The art displayed is truly impressive, not to mention the various crafts associated with the clothing, tools and housing for tribe members.

As can be seen, the Utes were/are masters of tanning animal hides, bead work and  various art forms.  However, they are also noted for their superior horsemanship, going back to around 1640 when they were the first tribe to acquire horses.  It started when a small band of Utes were captured by the Spanish and later escaped, bringing Spanish horses with them.  They gained a great advantage for hunting, and in battle with their adversaries, by training their horses to excel in the rocky, mountainous terrain in which they lived.  They still consider the horse to be a sacred animal.