Wednesday, February 28, 2018

Joshua Tree N P (2/24/2018) & Palm Springs, CA (2/26/2018)

Joshua Tree National Park is a large desolate tract in the Mojave Desert.  Approximately 800,000 acres, it is a little larger than the state of Rhode Island.  Named for the Joshua Tree species of the yucca plant, it was designated a National Monument by FDR in 1936 and made a national park by Congress in 1984.  More than half the park has subsequently been designated "wilderness area", which means no vehicles of any type are allowed.  North of Coachella Valley, the park is significantly higher elevation.  When I left camp early Saturday morning, it was 46F, but dropped to 42F as I entered the park, and reached 39F while I was touring.

I last visited the park in 2003, went to all the features and hiked quite a bit.  Not wanting to repeat all that, I simply drove through and took a couple roads not taken last time.  Entering the park around 9 am, I saw hundreds of cars already there.  Some were probably camping there, but I suspect many locals go on a week-end to hike the scenic trails.  I saw a few rock climbers and several guys carrying the "landing pads" used by the "bouldering" crowd.  Many bikers were on the roads, and horse trailers were parked in a couple spots.

Incidentally, joshua trees may grow up to 40 feet tall and live 150 years or more.  Since they aren't really a tree, there are no rings to help determine age.  In addition to the trees, the park is known for its unusual  rock formations, placed there mostly as a result of earthquake activity.  Several faults run through the park, so earthquakes aren't infrequent.




 In the next photo, a rock climber is working his way up the formation, near the center of the picture.
 The park service has done a really nice job of integrating picnic areas and campgrounds among the rock formations.  Trails also are well designed and maintained.  The park is truly a great recreational facility for locals and tourists alike.
On Monday, I took a ride on the Palm Springs Tramway, one of the most popular attractions in the area.  The tram takes people to the top of Mount San Jacinto, some 8000 feet above the valley floor.  There is a state park on the mountain, so riders have the opportunity to hike the park's trails once they arrive. 

Since the advertising says the tram rotates, I expected to mount the Go-Pro on a window and record the trip up.  However, only the floor of the car rotates, not the entire car.  Anyway, the sun was hitting our car so strongly, video just wasn't a good idea. 

I checked before leaving camp and saw it was 34F with a 17 mph wind at the summit.  Time for a jacket and gloves.  Even so, it was too cold for me to even consider hiking.



 There are three rotating trams in the world, one in south Africa and one in Switzerland, and this is the largest.
 The old tram car style (non-rotating) is on display.  The new cars, installed in 2000,  hold up to 80 people for the 10 minute ride to the top.  In total, more than 20 million passengers have ridden the tram since 1963.
 A former gas station at the foot of the mountain was designed in the mid-century modern style, the same as both upper and lower tram stations.
 Since I was already in Palm Springs, I decided to visit the "Elvis Honeymoon Home", as it's billed for tours.  Elvis bought the home in 1966 and he and Priscilla lived there when they got married and for a short while after.  It's another good example of mid-century modern, one that I actually like.  The roof line reminds me of a "flying wing".

I also took photos of a few other homes in the neighborhood, almost all of which are mid-century modern.





Sunday, February 25, 2018

Palm Springs, Palm Desert & Rancho Mirage, CA (2/22/2018)

My interest in architecture blossoms in a place like this, primarily because there is such a variety of styles to see.  The affluence of this area allows individuals and entire communities to pick and choose architectural styles, whether it be something traditional or the latest trend.  When this area had a growth spurt in the 1940s and 1950s, the so-called "modern" architecture was in vogue.  Rather square, cinder block buildings with flat or angled roof lines were popular.  That style is now called "mid-century modern" to reflect the fact that it was a temporary popularity.  You can still find this style here, even some newer construction, but many of the older examples have been renovated to look more Mediterranean, with stucco walls and peaked roofs of barrel tiles.  I never accepted the "modern" style, preferring something like Bob Hope's "flying saucer" house, or the one in Woody Allen's movie "Sleeper" (located in Colorado).  Now those homes will look modern for a very long time.

I learned of a place called Sunnylands, the estate of the late Walter and Leonore Annenberg, and the fact that it can be toured.  Unfortunately, I also learned that tours of the home or grounds are sold out through March.  Tickets for any month go on sale the 15th of the previous month and usually sell out that morning (at $48 per person).  However, there is a visitor center and garden next door that can be visited at no charge, so I did that.

The visitor center is done in a very modern style and the garden consists primarily of desert plants, including several types of cacti and several types of agave.  Trees and water features are used to add texture and cool the area for comfort.  A movie tells all about the fabulous life of the Annenbergs and shows much of their 23,000 square foot home (with 22 guest rooms).  Rather than try to summarize their story here, I invite you to read about them at Walter Annenberg and about their estate at Sunnylands.





The architecture of individual homes presents problems for me.  Only in rare cases can one see inside a home, such as historic home tours, and even to photograph a home from outside could invite suspicion.  Churches are much easier to visit, often both exterior and interior, although its becoming less likely to see inside due to security concerns.

I found some beautiful and interesting churches in this area and will share just a couple.  First, the Saint George Greek Orthodox Church.  After photographing outside, I found the door unlocked to the Priest's office and got his permission to photograph inside.  He was very gracious in allowing me to do so.


 Looking back toward the entry, I noticed the sunlight coming through the colored glass windows cast a very soothing purplish light.
 One of the many icons on the walls was this painting of Saint George Slaying The Dragon.
Catholic churches are often left unlocked so worshipers (and tourists) may enter at their convenience.  That was the case at Saint Louis Catholic Church which I spotted because of its unusual spire.  The "modern" style of the exterior did not appeal to me, but I loved the interior design.


A small park alongside a major roadway caught my eye as I drove past, speeding in an effort to stay up with the locals.  It is a memorial to cancer survivors, and I think we can all identify with the message it conveys whether we have personally had this disease or know someone who has.


Friday, February 23, 2018

Desert Hot Springs, CA (2/20/2018) & Whitewater, CA (2/21/2018)

Some of you may remember my interest in the "Whispering Giants" scattered across North America.  These are large Indian heads sculpted by Hungarian-born Peter Toth to honor Native Americans. Last I heard, there are 73 of these works of art, but I've only visited about 30 of them.  Too often, I forget to look for them and then learn there was one in an area I just left.  That recently happened and I missed the very first one, carved into the rocky shore at La Jolla.  Too far to go back.  Anyway, I did remember there is one in the Palm Desert area and looked for it.  Turns out it is pretty close to where I'm staying, in Desert Hot Springs.  Its home is Cabot's Old Indian Museum and Trading Post.


That same day, I took a drive to Thousand Palms to check out the Coachella Valley Preserve.  This 20,000+ acre wilderness area is managed by the Center for Natural Lands Management, relying totally on donations as no fees are charged.  They have extensive hiking trails, including some along the San Andreas fault that runs right through the reserve.  I mostly walked along the fault and through the spring-fed wetlands.  Unfortunately, it was not a good day for wildlife and I saw only a few birds.  The do have a nice totem pole out of respect for the Indians who lived in this area for thousands of years.
The next day, I went to Whitewater Preserve located in Whitewater Canyon, one of five such parks operated by The Wildlands Conservancy.  I must say it is an excellent park with an abundance of hiking trails that may be why most people come here.  The grounds and trails could not be maintained any better, so I was happy to make my donation to the effort.

Entering Whitewater Canyon, I was struck first by the high, steep, rugged cliffs on either side.  This is clearly neither a city park nor a simple walk in the woods.  The warning sign at the entrance added a little emphasis to that feeling.  If one thing doesn't get you, another will.







 When he saw I was photographing birds, a young ranger opened the gate to their wetlands, normally closed to visitors, so I might see more wildlife.  There were lots of birds (I won't post all of them), including peregrine falcons that nest high on the cliffs.  Too bad they soar so high that good photos are not possible with my gear.  There were also a band of desert bighorn sheep moving about on the ridges.
Phainopepla

Peregrine Falcon

Dark-eyed Junco

Savannah Sparrow?

California Thrasher

Spotted Towhee

Cassin's Vireo

Gray Flycatcher?

?????

Desert Bighorn Sheep
Any of you birders out there should feel free to correct or supply bird IDs.  I've learned that many species have a California-only range, which makes it difficult for an outsider to make a positive ID.