If you took a ruler and pencil and marked the very center of New Mexico, your mark would be very close to this little town. Founded in 1903 to serve the railroad, it's now mostly an agricultural area and the Gateway to Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument. Oh, the trains still come here, but don't really stop. During my stay, I observed maybe 25-30 trains per day rumbling through. Thankfully, the town persuaded the railroad to stop blowing horns here unless someone is actually on the tracks. The town's population is under 1000 and, like many small towns across the country, generally declining.
The Salinas Pueblo Missions are the ruins of three ancient cities of native cultures that left the area in the 1670s. The last natives in the area were a combination of Anasazi and Mogollon cultures, but previous cultures go back thousands of years. Drought, famine and persistent attacks from Apaches and Navajos are the main reasons these pueblos were abandoned. The missions in the three cities were the result of Spanish influence in attempts to convert the "savages' to Christianity. The ruins were jointly designated a National Monument in 1971. The three sites range from eight to twenty-five miles from Mountainair in three different directions.
Abo was a thriving pueblo when the Spanish arrived in 1581. Large living complexes, multi-story buildings and ceremonial kivas made up the community. A mission church was built in the 1620s, and a second, larger church later replaced it. Much of the site has never been excavated, but buried foundations can be seen.
The story of Quarai is similar, although the Spanish arrival was later. As usual, the Spanish mistreated the natives. Efforts to convert them were harsh, and the Conquistadors basically enslaved them. In fact, similar activities were being carried out all over New Mexico.
The largest of the three ruins, Gran Quivira, was a major trade center. Notice the color of the stones used in construction is gray and white, not the red rocks of the others. Also, notice some birds perched on the wall, upper left in the last photo.
Here is a closer view of the birds, which appear to be willets. What a surprise to see these shore birds so far inland. However, research shows they are known to move inland for breeding.
The nearby Manzano Mountains offer respite from the heat of the New Mexico plains, and an opportunity for recreation in several parks with numerous hiking and off-roading trails.
I drove to thee top of Capilla Peak (9400 feet elevation) and saw extensive devastation from a forest fire in recent times. As I returned down the mountain, the green forest at the lower level was in stark contrast to the upper part.
These mountains are a prime birding area in the fall when migrating raptors spend time here. For the moment, I had to settle for a few small birds.
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| White-breasted Nuthatch |
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| Mountain Chickadee |
Descendents of the original Spanish/Mexican settlers still live in the Salinas Valley, forming small villages based around their mission-style churches.
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