The most direct route from Safford to Springerville is US 191, a very scenic highway through the mountains. I drove that stretch of road in a car some years ago, and it is gorgeous. However, because of steep grades and tight switchbacks, large vehicles like trucks and RVs are not allowed to take that route. The alternative is to cross the mountains into New Mexico, go north for a couple hours, then cross back into Arizona. Crossing the mountains here has its own challenges, but with absolutely no traffic, the drive is more fun than worrisome.
The drive through NM was uneventful, although we started getting some winds that required full attention. Back in AZ, the wind really picked up, making it difficult to stay in the proper lane. (I read later we had gusts of 65 mph or more.) The last 20 miles to my destination were a nightmare, with the wind unfurling the awnings over my slideouts and smashing them against the roof and wall. The cats were scared to death as it sounded like the RV was coming apart. I even stopped once to see what damage was being done. We finally arrived at Lyman Lake State Park and gained a little relief, sheltered a bit by hills.
Springerville is an interesting town of about 2000 residents that was founded in 1879. It sits at an elevation of nearly 7000 feet, and smack dab in the middle of the third largest volcanic field in the continental U.S. It also happens to be the site of the most recent volcanic activity, other than random single events, with some 400 vents erupting within the past 300,000 years. A huge reservoir of carbon dioxide lies beneath the 1200 square mile field, and may be a source of geothermal energy in the future.
Cinder cones, lava rock and hills of colorful volcanic ash are readily visible, having barely been covered by a thin layer of soil. Ancestral Puebloans lived in this area before migrating to New Mexico, either because of climate change or attacks from the Apache and Navajo moving in from the north. I've tried to visit a particular set of ruins located on an exposed ledge, but visitors are not allowed when it's windy, which it has been every time I've been there.
Lyman Lake was formed by damming the Little Colorado River which has its headwaters in Springerville. The park has some small ruins and rock art, but the art requires tough hiking that I can no longer do, so I settled for a short hike to the ruins. Not all the ruins have been excavated, but there is a nice collection of pottery shards laid out on the ground.
With few trees in the area, birds aren't plentiful, but I did manage to capture a few photos.
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| Barn Swallow |
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| Horned Lark |
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| American Robin |
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| Yellow-rumped Warbler |
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| Mountain Bluebird (Male) |
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| Mountain Bluebird (Female) |
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