Around 1300, the Ancestral Puebloans abandoned their homes all over Utah, Colorado and Arizona and moved to new territory in northern New Mexico. Today, their descendants live in nineteen pueblos scattered around Albuquerque. Over the years, I've visited quite a few of these villages, but had never visited Zuni Pueblo until now. Since I was headed to Albuquerque, it wasn't much of a detour to drive through Zuni. The Visitor Center there sold me a photography pass (taking photos without one is illegal) and a tour of the pueblo. As it turned out, the tour had little sightseeing, but was mostly listening to the guide explain the history of the area, much of which I already knew. Still, I was happy to make the small contribution to a community that languishes in poverty.
In 1540, Coronado led an expedition of some 300 Conquistadors in search of the fabled Seven Cities of Gold. They first encountered the Zunis, then other pueblos, and basically enslaved them. Finding no gold, Coronado returned to Mexico, but some Spaniards remained and oppressed the Native Americans, trying to forcibly convert them to Catholicism. In 1680, the pueblos finally revolted and drove the Spanish out. The Spanish returned some years later, but were not so aggressive. Once a somewhat peaceful relationship developed, the Spanish/Mexican settlers established the New Mexico population we have today, while the various pueblos maintained an independent lifestyle.
Modern Visitor Center |
Hornos (Outdoor Ovens) |
Franciscan missionaries established Our Lady of Guadalupe Mission in 1630. Over the years, additions and restorations have taken place, but the Zunis have never truly accepted the Spanish religion. The mission has been in decline for many years and some Zunis wanted to destroy it. However, it is currently being restored yet again for use as a museum. Because of construction activity, we were not allowed inside.
Modern housing was built to look somewhat like traditional rock/stucco structures.
Ceremonial kivas were originally built underground, but no longer. Now above ground, kivas are entered from the roof to simulate the old style.
The earliest trading post is still in use.
The relatively modern Catholic church and school appear to get little or no use today.
When the Zunis learned the Spanish were returning, they evacuated their homes and hid on top of Black Mesa until being convinced it was a peaceful expedition.
In Albuquerque, high winds kept me pinned down for a couple days, which I used to catch up on chores, such as laundry, cleaning, a haircut, etc. Having visited the city several times, I did not repeat the typical visitor activities. I discovered there is a Mormon Temple in town, so had to check it out. The Sandia Mountains form a lovely backdrop for the building.
My campground had an impressive array of life-size sculptures adorning the grounds, reflecting the culture of the Southwest. I liked the ones of the Native Americans best of all.
With the Rio Grande flowing through the center of town, Albuquerque has established a park system that runs for many miles on both sides of the river. Called Paseo del Bosque (roughly "wooded place), it has miles of hiking/biking trails, a nature center, botanical gardens, a zoo and several ponds for fishing and wildlife observation.
Mallard |
American Wigeon |
And I finally got to see one of the colorful sunsets I expect to experience in New Mexico.
Very interesting and much appreciated history lesson on the people, buildings and this area! Thanks so much, it’s good to see your back in the saddle again! Have a beautiful day!!!
ReplyDeleteSincerely,
Becky in Mesquite, NV
PS smiled looking forward to the lunar eclipse tomorrow night, I hope you enjoy it as well and get some good photos to share. 😉😘🧡
Nice to hear from you, Becky. So, you live in Mesquite now? Love to visit that area, as you may recall from past travelogues. Especially like Gold Butte NM. Not sure I'll be up for the eclipse, I usually hit the sack around 9 pm. We'll see.
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